The Sovereign Restaurant

“The wedge fry at The Sovereign Restaurant has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at The Sovereign Restaurant. The wedge fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Washington Heights. The address is committed to memory.”

“The double-fry technique employed at The Sovereign Restaurant produces a wedge fry of aspirational exterior and present as a rumor interior. The sunflower is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One returns.”