The Sovereign Bar & Grill

“The steak fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. The Sovereign Bar & Grill understands this. The kitchen has chosen vegetable, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns.”

“There are establishments in Greenpoint that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Sovereign Bar & Grill is not among them. The steak format is ambitious. The vegetable is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The fry alone merits the journey to Greenpoint.”