Bistro Fryer

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Bistro Fryer, one arrives closer to an answer. The wedge fry, double-fried in peanut, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The fry at Bistro Fryer does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The wedge cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The address is committed to memory.”

“The fry at Bistro Fryer does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The wedge format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. One returns.”