Downtown Stick

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Downtown Stick, one arrives closer to an answer. The steak fry, double-fried in duck fat, presents crispness that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Downtown Stick knows this.”

“The fry at Downtown Stick does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The steak cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Downtown Stick, one appreciates.”