Fairfax

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Fairfax. The shoestring fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Harlem. The fry alone merits the journey to Harlem.”

“One does not seek drama at Fairfax. One seeks fries. The shoestring format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One returns.”

“The crispness of the shoestring fry at Fairfax is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Fairfax knows this.”

“The fry at Fairfax does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The shoestring format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The single-fry technique employed at Fairfax produces a shoestring fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and earnest and specific interior. The lard is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Fairfax knows this.”