Montrose's Dining Room

“The thick-cut fry at Montrose's Dining Room maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The menu at Montrose's Dining Room contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The thick-cut fry is triple-fried in vegetable. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. The informed visitor is correct. The fry alone merits the journey to NoHo.”

“The thick-cut fry at Montrose's Dining Room does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Montrose's Dining Room applies it correctly. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”