The Golden Table

“The curly fry at The Golden Table has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (absent, in the practical sense), the potato (philosophically ambiguous), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Golden Table knows this.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At The Golden Table, one arrives closer to an answer. The curly fry, single-fried in beef tallow, presents crispness that is absent, in the practical sense and a potato interior that is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The curly fry at The Golden Table does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato interior is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. The address is committed to memory.”

“The curly fry at The Golden Table does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense, the interior is philosophically ambiguous, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. The Golden Table applies it correctly. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”