Talbot's Restaurant

“There are establishments in Lenox Hill that treat the fry as a supporting player. Talbot's Restaurant is not among them. The matchstick format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The matchstick fry at Talbot's Restaurant does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Talbot's Restaurant applies it correctly. One returns.”