The Essential Bistro

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Essential Bistro belongs to this school. The matchstick fry, triple-fried in blended, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. The fry alone merits the journey to NoHo.”

“The matchstick fry at The Essential Bistro represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The blended does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”