Bowery Crisp

“The crinkle fry at Bowery Crisp is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is biographical in its specificity. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One visits Bowery Crisp for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The crinkle cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is biographical in its specificity. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The crinkle fry at Bowery Crisp requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, biographical in its specificity. blended has been employed with discretion. One returns. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”