Brasserie Pomme

“One arrives skeptical at Brasserie Pomme. One departs converted. The matchstick fry is responsible for both. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Brasserie Pomme, one appreciates.”

“The matchstick fry presents itself at Brasserie Pomme with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”