Gaston Kowalski's Dining Room

“The matchstick fry presents itself at Gaston Kowalski's Dining Room with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Gaston Kowalski's Dining Room has one of its own. The matchstick fry is single-fried in beef tallow. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. The fry alone merits the journey to East Village.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Gaston Kowalski's Dining Room, one arrives closer to an answer. The matchstick fry, single-fried in beef tallow, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”