Park Stick

“The triple-fry technique employed at Park Stick produces a steak fry of adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition exterior and earnest and specific interior. The duck fat is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Park Stick belongs to this school. The steak fry, triple-fried in duck fat, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The steak fry at Park Stick maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The address is committed to memory.”

“The crispness of the steak fry at Park Stick is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. One returns.”