La Crisp

“The wedge fry at La Crisp maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At La Crisp, one arrives closer to an answer. The wedge fry, triple-fried in sunflower, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at La Crisp. The wedge fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Mott Haven. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The wedge fry at La Crisp maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The fry alone merits the journey to Mott Haven.”