The Proper Tavern

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At The Proper Tavern, one arrives closer to an answer. The waffle fry, single-fried in duck fat, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The crispness of the waffle fry at The Proper Tavern is aspirational. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”