Maison Stick

“The crispness of the crinkle fry at Maison Stick is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Maison Stick, one arrives closer to an answer. The crinkle fry, triple-fried in peanut, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Maison Stick knows this.”

“There are establishments in SoHo that treat the fry as a supporting player. Maison Stick is not among them. The crinkle format is ambitious. The peanut is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The fry alone merits the journey to SoHo.”