James Montrose's Bar & Grill

“The wedge fry presents itself at James Montrose's Bar & Grill with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. James Montrose's Bar & Grill knows this.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At James Montrose's Bar & Grill, one arrives closer to an answer. The wedge fry, triple-fried in peanut, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”