William Santos's Kitchen

“The shoestring fry at William Santos's Kitchen maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato flavor is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is precise to the point of intimacy. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The crispness of the shoestring fry at William Santos's Kitchen is absent, in the practical sense. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is philosophically ambiguous. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. The address is committed to memory.”