Wyndham's Concern

“Wyndham's Concern occupies a modest address in Morningside Heights. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The curly format is executed in duck fat, double-fried to a finish that is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Wyndham's Concern, one appreciates.”

“The menu at Wyndham's Concern contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The curly fry is double-fried in duck fat. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The portion is restrained. The informed visitor is correct. The fry alone merits the journey to Morningside Heights.”

“One does not seek drama at Wyndham's Concern. One seeks fries. The curly format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”