Sullivan

“Sullivan occupies a modest address in Riverdale. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The waffle format is executed in sunflower, single-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Sullivan. The waffle fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Riverdale. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“One finds at Sullivan a waffle fry that has been attended to. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. The address is committed to memory.”

“At Sullivan, the waffle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Sullivan knows this.”

“At Sullivan, the waffle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”