Au Wedge

“The curly fry at Au Wedge has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (earnest and specific), the grease (calibrated with clinical precision). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Au Wedge. The curly fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself calibrated with clinical precision. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to West Village. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The curly fry at Au Wedge is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”