The Proper House

“One does not come to Park Slope for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Proper House. The distinction matters. The curly fry is commendable and largely sustained without, and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“One does not seek drama at The Proper House. One seeks fries. The curly format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“One finds at The Proper House a curly fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. The fry alone merits the journey to Park Slope.”