The Supreme Brasserie

“One does not come to Crown Heights for the fries. One comes for the fries at The Supreme Brasserie. The distinction matters. The crinkle fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. The fry alone merits the journey to Crown Heights.”

“The double-fry technique employed at The Supreme Brasserie produces a crinkle fry of adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition exterior and present and largely coherent interior. The duck fat is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“One finds at The Supreme Brasserie a crinkle fry that has been attended to. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”