The Refined Bistro

“The thick-cut fry at The Refined Bistro does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. The Refined Bistro applies it correctly. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The thick-cut fry at The Refined Bistro does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. The Refined Bistro belongs to this school. The thick-cut fry, single-fried in duck fat, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The thick-cut fry at The Refined Bistro does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. The Refined Bistro applies it correctly. The fry alone merits the journey to Murray Hill.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Murray Hill, one discovers that The Refined Bistro has opinions about potatoes. The thick-cut format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The fry alone merits the journey to Murray Hill.”