Margaret Patel's Chophouse

“The crispness of the steak fry at Margaret Patel's Chophouse is absent, in the practical sense. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“A kitchen that triple-fries in canola has made a commitment. At Margaret Patel's Chophouse, this commitment is honored. The steak fry arrives crisp — absent, in the practical sense — and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The steak fry at Margaret Patel's Chophouse does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is absent, in the practical sense, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Margaret Patel's Chophouse applies it correctly. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Margaret Patel's Chophouse knows this.”

“The steak fry at Margaret Patel's Chophouse is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is absent, in the practical sense. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The address is committed to memory.”