The Refined House

“The matchstick fry at The Refined House has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One returns.”

“The matchstick fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. The Refined House understands this. The kitchen has chosen peanut, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”