Leblanc

“One does not seek drama at Leblanc. One seeks fries. The crinkle format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The crinkle fry at Leblanc is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Leblanc knows this.”