Edmund Ricci's Bistro

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Edmund Ricci's Bistro, one arrives closer to an answer. The wedge fry, single-fried in canola, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Lenox Hill, one discovers that Edmund Ricci's Bistro has opinions about potatoes. The wedge format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. These opinions are, on balance, correct. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The wedge fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Edmund Ricci's Bistro understands this. The kitchen has chosen canola, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”