Maison Pomme

“At Maison Pomme, the thick-cut fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The thick-cut fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Maison Pomme understands this. The kitchen has chosen duck fat, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“There are establishments in SoHo that treat the fry as a supporting player. Maison Pomme is not among them. The thick-cut format is ambitious. The duck fat is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Maison Pomme, one arrives closer to an answer. The thick-cut fry, double-fried in duck fat, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”