Le Stick

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Le Stick. The wedge fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself calibrated with clinical precision. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Crown Heights. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“There are establishments in Crown Heights that treat the fry as a supporting player. Le Stick is not among them. The wedge format is ambitious. The duck fat is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The menu at Le Stick contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The wedge fry is double-fried in duck fat. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. The informed visitor is correct. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The wedge fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Le Stick understands this. The kitchen has chosen duck fat, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“At Le Stick, the wedge fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”