La Spud

“One arrives skeptical at La Spud. One departs converted. The wedge fry is responsible for both. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The fry at La Spud does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The wedge format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”