Théodore Antonelli's Brasserie

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Théodore Antonelli's Brasserie, one arrives closer to an answer. The shoestring fry, triple-fried in sunflower, presents crispness that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition and a potato interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“One does not come to West Village for the fries. One comes for the fries at Théodore Antonelli's Brasserie. The distinction matters. The shoestring fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and present as a rumor within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”