The Correct Fryer

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, The Correct Fryer has one of its own. The curly fry is double-fried in canola. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The curly fry presents itself at The Correct Fryer with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The curly fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. The Correct Fryer understands this. The kitchen has chosen canola, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The Correct Fryer occupies a modest address in Kips Bay. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The curly format is executed in canola, double-fried to a finish that is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The curly fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. The Correct Fryer understands this. The kitchen has chosen canola, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”