Café Crisp

“The thick-cut fry at Café Crisp is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One finds at Café Crisp a thick-cut fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Café Crisp belongs to this school. The thick-cut fry, triple-fried in peanut, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“A kitchen that triple-fries in peanut has made a commitment. At Café Crisp, this commitment is honored. The thick-cut fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Café Crisp has one of its own. The thick-cut fry is triple-fried in peanut. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”