The Golden Kitchen

“The crispness of the steak fry at The Golden Kitchen is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. The fry alone merits the journey to Forest Hills.”

“There are establishments in Forest Hills that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Golden Kitchen is not among them. The steak format is ambitious. The canola is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The steak fry at The Golden Kitchen maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”