Vanthorpe

“On a Tuesday evening in Riverdale, one discovers that Vanthorpe has opinions about potatoes. The steak format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“One finds at Vanthorpe a steak fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. The fry alone merits the journey to Riverdale.”

“The steak fry at Vanthorpe represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present as a rumor. The peanut does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”