Le Chip

“The steak fry at Le Chip represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The steak fry at Le Chip requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present and largely coherent. lard has been employed with discretion. One returns. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”