Leblanc's Kitchen

“Not every establishment in Pelham Bay understands its own fry. Leblanc's Kitchen understands its fry. The matchstick format, double-fried in duck fat, produces a crispness that is aspirational and an interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Leblanc's Kitchen, one appreciates.”

“The matchstick fry at Leblanc's Kitchen maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The fry alone merits the journey to Pelham Bay.”

“The matchstick fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Leblanc's Kitchen understands this. The kitchen has chosen duck fat, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is aspirational. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“One visits Leblanc's Kitchen for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The matchstick cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”