Le Wedge

“One does not seek drama at Le Wedge. One seeks fries. The crinkle format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Le Wedge. The crinkle fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease situates itself conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Riverdale. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Le Wedge, one appreciates.”