Café Fry
Pelham Bay · Bronx · Gastropub · $$

Cut Style
Crinkle
Cooking Method
Single-fried
Oil Type
Beef tallow
Price
$$
Sauce Compatibility
Location
Pelham Bay, Bronx · 40.8449, -73.8327
Critical Assessments
“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Café Fry belongs to this school. The crinkle fry, single-fried in beef tallow, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Café Fry knows this.”
“The crinkle fry at Café Fry requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present as a rumor. beef tallow has been employed with discretion. One returns. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”
“At Café Fry, the crinkle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Café Fry knows this.”
Christina's Note
One has been. One has formed an opinion. One has moved on.
