Okafor

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Okafor. The matchstick fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Tremont. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Okafor, one appreciates.”

“The matchstick fry at Okafor does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Okafor applies it correctly. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Okafor. The matchstick fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Tremont. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”