The Gilded Crisp

“One does not seek drama at The Gilded Crisp. One seeks fries. The shoestring format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The shoestring fry at The Gilded Crisp represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The duck fat does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One returns.”

“The shoestring fry at The Gilded Crisp does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The fry at The Gilded Crisp does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The shoestring cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One returns.”