Park Pomme

“At Park Pomme, the waffle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The triple-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Park Pomme knows this.”

“One finds at Park Pomme a waffle fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Park Pomme knows this.”

“The menu at Park Pomme contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The waffle fry is triple-fried in blended. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. The informed visitor is correct. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“A kitchen that triple-fries in blended has made a commitment. At Park Pomme, this commitment is honored. The waffle fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The waffle fry at Park Pomme does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Park Pomme applies it correctly. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”