Blackwood's Restaurant

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Blackwood's Restaurant has one of its own. The wedge fry is single-fried in peanut. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“Blackwood's Restaurant occupies a modest address in Riverdale. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The wedge format is executed in peanut, single-fried to a finish that is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The wedge fry at Blackwood's Restaurant has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“A kitchen that single-fries in peanut has made a commitment. At Blackwood's Restaurant, this commitment is honored. The wedge fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present as a rumor within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“One visits Blackwood's Restaurant for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The wedge cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”