Céleste Laurent's Kitchen

“Not every establishment in Bed-Stuy understands its own fry. Céleste Laurent's Kitchen understands its fry. The thick-cut format, single-fried in blended, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The crispness of the thick-cut fry at Céleste Laurent's Kitchen is commendable and largely sustained. This is noted first because it is noted first. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. First impressions, in the case of the french fry, are usually correct. This one is. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The thick-cut fry at Céleste Laurent's Kitchen does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Céleste Laurent's Kitchen applies it correctly. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“Céleste Laurent's Kitchen occupies a modest address in Bed-Stuy. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The thick-cut format is executed in blended, single-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“At Céleste Laurent's Kitchen, the thick-cut fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. One returns.”