Santos's Room

“A kitchen that triple-fries in canola has made a commitment. At Santos's Room, this commitment is honored. The wedge fry arrives crisp — adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition — and present as a rumor within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Santos's Room belongs to this school. The wedge fry, triple-fried in canola, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Santos's Room, one appreciates.”

“The triple-fry technique employed at Santos's Room produces a wedge fry of adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition exterior and present as a rumor interior. The canola is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The fry alone merits the journey to Woodside.”

“One does not come to Woodside for the fries. One comes for the fries at Santos's Room. The distinction matters. The wedge fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and present as a rumor within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The wedge fry at Santos's Room maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”