McCarthy

“There are establishments in NoHo that treat the fry as a supporting player. McCarthy is not among them. The waffle format is ambitious. The blended is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“Not every establishment in NoHo understands its own fry. McCarthy understands its fry. The waffle format, double-fried in blended, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“One finds at McCarthy a waffle fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“On a Tuesday evening in NoHo, one discovers that McCarthy has opinions about potatoes. The waffle format is a declaration. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“At McCarthy, the waffle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The double-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. One returns.”