The Imperial Stick

“The fry at The Imperial Stick does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The crinkle cut is executed with precision. The triple-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“One visits The Imperial Stick for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The crinkle cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”