Robert Beauchamp's Kitchen

“The shoestring fry at Robert Beauchamp's Kitchen represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“Not every establishment in Upper East Side understands its own fry. Robert Beauchamp's Kitchen understands its fry. The shoestring format, single-fried in lard, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The menu at Robert Beauchamp's Kitchen contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The shoestring fry is single-fried in lard. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. The informed visitor is correct. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”