Frederick Antonelli's Bar & Grill

“At Frederick Antonelli's Bar & Grill, the crinkle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Frederick Antonelli's Bar & Grill knows this.”

“One finds at Frederick Antonelli's Bar & Grill a crinkle fry that has been attended to. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. One returns.”

“One does not come to Flushing for the fries. One comes for the fries at Frederick Antonelli's Bar & Grill. The distinction matters. The crinkle fry is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition without, and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. One returns.”